Native to South-eastern USA, these small lizards are extremely energetic and acrobatic.
They have the ability to move each eye independently, so are acutely aware of their surroundings. They require specific care and conditions so should only be raised by someone willing to put the necessary time into their care.
Males will fight but can be kept in a small colony with Females.
Males can inflate their pink throat dewlap and raise the spines along their back when threatening other Males, or courting Females.
Green Anoles can change colour, and will turn brown when stressed.
Latin Name: Anolis carolinensis
Difficulty Level: Intermediate
Temperament: Docile but quick.
Life Span: 4 – 10 Years
Size: 5″ – 8″ Although Males are slightly larger than Females in general.
Habitat: South-eastern USA – Arboreal.
Diet: Crickets, Locusts, Mealworms, Flightless Fruit Flies.
You can also feed them Waxworms as an occasional treat.
Supplements: A good multivitamin supplement, such as Nutrobal.
Hours of Activity: Diurnal – Green Anoles are most active in the day time.
Handling: Avoid handling Green Anoles unless changing Vivariums, or for medical reasons. They are very delicate and stress easily. However, you can train them to eat from your hand.
23°C – 26°C Ambient day time temperature.
29°C – 32°C Basking temperature.
20°C Minimum ambient night time temperature.
Humidity: 60% – 70%
Vivarium Size: 60cm x 40cm x 40cm (Minimum)
Substrate Type: Sphagnum Moss, Peat Soil, Bark, Coconut Fibre.
Equipment Necessary: Glass Vivarium, UVB Lighting, Heating Bulb, Misting System, Two Thermometers, Thermostat.
Cleaning Instructions: Spot Clean any waste or uneaten food daily. Clean the Vivarium and change the substrate monthly.
Healthy Behaviours: Displaying both green and brown colouration, Actively jumping and climbing about in their enclosure, Feeding well, Moving between basking and cooling over the course of the day.
Sick Behaviours: Green Anoles will turn dark brown when stressed. They can detach their tails when threatened. It will grow back, but not completely. The regrown tail lacks the ability to change colour.
The top of the Vivarium should be the basking area, with the bottom being the cooler ambient area. Measure this with a thermometer in each zone.
Male Green Anoles have evolved into two distinct variants – Heavyweight and Lightweight. Both kinds display different behaviour and size due to differences in their testosterone levels.
Heavyweights will fight with brute force, biting and overpowering one another to see who is dominant. Lightweights compete by leaping into the air to see who jumps the highest. They also compete to see which will run faster, as they win their victory by claiming the territory first.
Due to this, it is not recommended to keep more than one Male Green Anole per enclosure.
In the wild, Green Anoles go into Brumation over winter. You can induce this in healthy specimens by gradually reducing the temperature and how long the lights are on for each day.
Dehydration – Green Anoles must be kept well hydrated, with their Vivarium’s humidity at an ideal level of 60% – 70% otherwise they will dry out and die within a few days.
Dark Brown Colour – The Anole is either stressed, too cold, or isn’t getting enough UVB Light.
Not Eating – The Anole may be dehydrated or have parasites. Check the humidity and if the problem persists, seek veterinary advice.
Loss of tail – If the Anole has lost its tail, it is an indication of stress, or as a victim of aggression by more dominant specimens.
This can also happen if you try to handle your Anole by the tail.
If your Anoles are fighting, separate them.